Beginner Friendly Quilted Bucket Tutorial

For our December Aurifil Artisan challenge I chose to make a couple of quilted buckets. Having sewn similar from thread catcher patterns and online tutorials, my goal was to end up with ones that served the same purpose and were visually pleasing but constructed with simplified steps - omitting my dreaded tasks and adding in my most favorites. 

The quilting itself can be elaborate like the blue example, straight line stitching like the floral or anything else the maker feels comfortable doing.   Because the fabric bucket can be used for whatever you want - the measurements are only a guideline.  You can use any rectangle size you prefer.  

The front and back are the same size and the bottom is a 2" strip the same as your width.  These were cut two @ 6.5"x8.5" and one @ 2"x8.5" then sewn together as shown below.  Measure the size of the newly sewn rectangle unit and jot this number down to refer to when it's time to cut your lining. My example measures 14" once stitched. 

Keep in mind that the sides and bottom will wrap so you'll want to avoid positioning your favorite part of the fabric near those edges.  

Fold your sewn rectangle unit in half right sides together and stitch the sides as shown below.  Next, using a ruler mark a 1 1/2" square using the bottom fold line and the side stitch line then cut with scissors. 

Right sides together, fold to line up the side seem in the center and sew the raw edges from the cut out portion together.  *edited to include a step by step visual mosaic for boxing the bottom. There are a lot of video tutorials available that you can search and refer to as well. 

Repeat on the other side to form a boxed bottom.  Turn the bucket exterior right side out as shown below   

      

Including a bottom strip may seem like an unnecessary extra step but it not only allows you to orient directional print correctly but it also helps create a flat stable base.

I had originally picked the honeycomb fabric but felt it was too bold and graphic so I auditioned more from my stash and was happy with the dustier palette and organic scallops instead. 

Depending on how much of the lining you would like to show as the top accent, take the measurement that you jotted down from the exterior sewn rectangle and add about 1" to 1.5" to the longest.  In my example the exterior was 14"x8.5" so I cut my lining 15.5"x8.5".  Note that the width remains unchanged.

Construct your lining in a similar way by sewing the sides, cutting the 1 1/2" squares from the bottom and boxing it.  A couple of things are different for the lining: You leave it wrong side out and you fold and press the top down 1/4" and then again to meet the exterior. 

Set the lining inside and fiddle with the amount of fold until it rests flush.  If the amount of fabric showing is more than you like, simply refold the 1/4" raw edge fold more to reduce the visible accent rim.  This flexibility to easily alter the look and have a forgiving fit is the way I like to work.

Machine stitch around the top to secure the lining.  You can see that I sewed close to the edges and through the middle of the lines but you can include as many passes as you like to make the top even more structured.  I used 2930 Golden Toast 50wt for piecing and 40wt for topstitching. 

An alternative to topstitching multiple lines by machine is to hand sew with 12wt.  I love the look and texture it gives the rim of the floral bucket and think the treatment compliments the 40/3 wt channel stitching well.

This method is also more beginner friendly for those who struggle with aligning topstitching by machine.   I like not having to leave a side seam open for turning that needs to be sewn closed after like commonly done in other patterns.  

Fabric and batting scraps are perfect for this project and they make great gifts.  Even though similar quilted buckets are marketed as thread catchers for quilters, they come in handy for storing lots of other things too. 

Timing was perfect for these two projects.  I was able to complete both despite the busy holiday season and gift them to my swap partners without the stress of complicated construction.  Pairing fabrics and thread to personalize them for the recipients is where I'd rather focus my creative energy. 

Aurifil Threads : 

2930 Golden Toast 40 wt and 50 wt 

2715  Robins Egg Blue Fory/3 wt

2250 Red 12wt 

5020 Light Military Green Forty/3 wt

2019 FAL Tutorial Week and Reminder to Link Up Q2 Finishes

Today I'm popping in for a quick reminder that the Quarter 2 link up for all your finishes closes on Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 11 pm EST.  So you still have a few more days to finish that project or two and link them up to be eligible for prizes.  The link up can be found HERE or on any of the 2019 FAL hosts blogs.


A few reminders for linking up:

• Please only one finished project for each post that you link up, so that each finish can be an entry in the (random) prize draw. 
• Please include a link to your original list in each post of your finishes (on Instagram the link is the unique tag #2019FALQ2yourname to be used in the Q2 list post, and in any Q2 finish post).
• Please visit some of the other participants and leave a friendly comment, we all love to get those! 

I also wanted to share with you that we just wrapped up "Tutorial Week" which has been part of the Finish-A-Long since it's inception.  The tutorials are varied, interesting, and usually helpful, so take some time to investigate and visit the blogs below!

• July 2, 2019 - Marci of Marci Girl Designs - Fabric Ball Tutorial
• July 3, 2019 - Karen of Capitola Quilter - "In A Bubble" Quilt Block
• July 4, 2019 - Izzy of Dizzy Quilts - Simple and Quick Quilt Labels
• July 5, 2019 - Julie of That's Sew Julie - Crochet Self-Folding Hot Pad

And whether you had a lot of finishes, or none at all this quarter, or you missed Finish-A-Long Q2 altogether, you can always join in for Quarter 3 which is taking off on July 10th, with the link up opening for your List of Proposed Finishes. We hope you will join us!

I've linked up two of my finished for Q2 from Instagram, a gifted baby quilt and an award winning mini challenge.  I have yet to post a recap with the my third and most exciting finish so you're in good company if you still have it to do - no worries, just watch the countdown timer at the bottom of the page.  As of now, there's about three and a half days remaining and already over 250 projects linked, whoop whoop.  Happy Stitching, Karen

2018 FAL Tutorial: Power Prepping Quarter Circles

Power Prepping Quarter Circles Tutorial:

Getting the same (or similar enough) results more quickly with less fuss is a win win in my book.  I use the "WHAT IF" approach to designing quilts often but I have discovered that it can apply just as well with construction.

Quarter Circles are a graphic, versatile design element and quite on trend.  Easy to love but not all that fast to make with the usual required method of marking and cutting.

STEP 1: Stack 6-10 layers depending on personal skill set

Today is my turn on the 2018 Q3 Finish-A-Long Tutorial blog hop.  I am sharing a technique for Power Prepping Quarter Circles for those of you who have more projects than minutes of the day like me. 

STEP 2: Baste Stitch a straight line X from corner to corner

Before we begin, I want to stress the importance of SAFETY FIRST:

Cutting multiple layers can be tricky so be SURE that you stay within your skill set and do not attempt more than you can safely execute.  Use a brand new blade and take all of the usual precautions like keeping yourself ergonomically positioned with your precious fingers away from the rotary.

An alternative is to use freezer paper templates (pressed with a hot iron shiny side down) and sharp scissors.

STEP 3: align template 

For this tutorial I used 10" pre-cut layer cake squares but folded yardage cut into squares works too.

Refer to steps 1-3 above.
Stack the number of layers you are comfortable with and Baste a straight line corner to corner in both directions creating an X.  Use a walking foot and/or adjust your machine setting for the correct fabric thickness during this step to reduce shifting and puckering however some distortion is fine.  Position the template as shown.  Tip: If your template is not already marked, you can indicate the middle point as I have done.

STEP 4: cut curve and straight edges

Refer to Steps 4-7
Cut the curve and straight edges on of the concave template and convex template.  Using a rotating mat is nice but not necessary. Simply reposition the parts as you go through the steps for an optimal ergonomic approach.  Because they are tacked together with the stitch lines, there's no worry about them wiggling out of place while handling them.

STEP 5: align other template

You can either cut along the template edge, or place a second ruler to position on the cut line and move the template away to cut as shown above and below. I personally like to have a more substantial ruler that extends further than my target shape to hold onto when cutting a straight edge of multiple layers.

STEP 6: cut edges

When you place the template back on the stack for the final cutting of the end tabs, it can be a little awkward.  I find that "rocking" my rotary blade cut works well for small areas like these. 

STEP 7: cut curve and tips

Did you think the Basted X was just to give stability to the stack and allow you to cut a bunch at a time instead of just a couple?  Well, it was that and more - read on.

STEP 8: Refer to Needle Hole Center Marks

Using a seam ripper, unstitch the Basting thread and reveal the needle holes. Your lovely big batch of concave and convex parts are ready to be sewn together using the needle holes for matching up as you stitch, pin or glue!  Being able to not only see but feel your target point is great.

Bonus Cuts from a Layer Cake

Isn't it wonderful how little waste there is? The cut offs from a 10" are large usable chunks and ready to be incorporated into the quilt or the beginning of another!

If you are a super precise quilter and perfection is your sewing threshold or you geniunely enjoy the steps of marking, notching, gluing or pinning when making half quarter circles, this tutorial might leave you shaking your head and rollin' your eyes. No judgement here - that's okay too.

Remember to link up your Q3 finishes (ends October 9) and start putting together your Q4 goals because that linky opens October 10th.

 Leave me a comment with time saving tips and tricks that you have discovered to eliminate or expedite steps - I'd love to hear!

Easy Framed Accent: 2017FALQ2 Host Tutorial

2017 FAL Q2 Host - Tutorial

Welcome!  It's my turn to share a tutorial as part of the Finish A Long Quarter 2 hop.   I hope you've been enjoying meeting the other hosts and have taken the time to check out their blogs.   Remember the Finishes Link Up closes July 1st.   See the FAL tab for details. 

Easy Framed Accent

Adding a special touch to any project just got a little easier and a tad bit clever if I do say so myself.   There are a TON of patterns out there to make simple projects like a zipper pouch, bag or tote.  No matter how great they are, I'm often tempted to give them a tweak.  If you're the same way, consider embellishing with a Framed Accent Strip.  I'll show you how.

The sample above is made using Swag charm squares and could be top stitched down and sewn into any of the above mentioned projects.

See how great this promotional free duffle bag transforms into something useful and pretty once the ugly logo is covered up.  Excuse the wonder clips - I'm contemplating the best method to use for attaching it since the outer pocket isn't conveniently accessible. What do you think, fabric glue, wonder under, hand stitching? 

Where to Begin

1. Choose your accent.  These can be scraps of any kind or one long fussy cut piece.   Left over from a swap mini, I chose to feature six 2.5" HST half square triangles.  Originally I planned to make one for each side of the duffle, but in the end decided to just use one set.  

1/4" seams throughout.  Chain stitch the squares together and press the seams open. 

Cut ONE outer frame (grey) 4" wide and slightly longer than your accent.

Cut ONE inner frame (black) at least 2" wide and slightly longer than your accent.

Sew the inner frame (black) to one side of the outer frame (grey).  Press towards the black.  Right side facing up and using the seam line where the grey and back meet, measure 1/2" and trim*.  Use the cut off excess of the black to repeat the same steps on the other side.

*alternate method: you can also cut TWO 3/4" strips.  I personally find very thin strips awkward to handle and prefer the other but either technique will work.

Sew the accent strip to one side.  Tuck in the seam allowance under as shown below as you press. 

Gently fold over to align the other side of the accent placing it directly across and sew the second side.

Using the tip of your iron, tuck and press the second side in the same manner as the first side.  

Turn the "tube" that you have created Right Side Out.

 Use your fingers to position the frame with approximately the same amount showing on each side and press.  There you have it!

Four Charms Version 

Constructed basically the same way as the HST version except that the black 1" end tabs were added.

I also like to cut off the pinked edges.

Here's a detail shot below of the presser foot running under the pressed seam.   I'm not that particular about accuracy but for those who really want it to be as even as possible you might want to take this step slow and watch your line. 

The excess trims away at 10" so that is what I will use for the width of the linen.

Ripple Strudel - apple slices tutorial

Today I thought I'd share a little bit about my Ripple Strudel quilt and add another item to the long neglected TUTORIAL TAB on the blog.  When Carol Van Zandt offered to send me some of her amazing new fabric line Luna Lounge to play with, I knew it was a great excuse to try out the large apple core template I picked up at from the  Jenny Doan booth at Quilt Festival. 

Ripple Strudel

The warm grays and black called out for a graphic design. After seeing the QuiltCon bias tape challenge, I picked up the Clover tool but just like the template it has pretty much been sitting ever since.  Andover's textured solid in Lacquer worked perfectly and hand-stiched like butter on the binding.

Binding Tool - right side of fabric

The right and wrong side of Textured Solid is pretty obvious - because, umm it's textured - so make sure to feed it through correctly to avoid the uncurling of your fold (pictured above).

Textured Solids 

After a comment from Linda Flourishing Palms on IG about attaching the binding before trimming the excess batting/backing I remembered that I had been taught that originally and used that technique on my earliest quilts.  Verdict is split - there is more stability and a cleaner trim from your stitch line but I haven't converted back.  There's something gratifying about the "haircut" and fresh edge that I find too appealing to wait until after.

Finished Details

Combining FMQ, topstitch and echo stitch made me quit happy and I think lends well to the design.  Super happy to have COMPLETED the first of my FAL Q2 projects (goal setting post here)

Apple Slices - How To

Rather than stick to the traditional Apple Core pattern,   I created apple slices - and chunks.   (Note that I've added additional pictures of each step below that I photographed along the way with another scrappier quilt to give you more samples) 

I've used FQs but yardage and a Layer cake would work as well.  Also, if you don't own a template you could print one for free from sources like QuiltersCache and modify the scale.  The arc is different but the concept is the same.

Let's get Started:

Layer Up and Cut

To avoid fabric waste and save time, I folded the FQ first lengthwise and then again to cut four layers at once.  You could even use 2 FQs and get away with 8 layers because they will be trimmed later and the slight distortion from stacking that high doesn't really matter. The squares just need to be at least 8 3/4".

Sew together four-patch blocks and center the template.  Rotary cut around with a slight over cut at each tip, just enough to free to core but not too much - you'll see why in a minute.    

Center the template

Now it's time to clean up those mis-matched outer edges.  If you have a big 16.5" ruler it's awesome - but if not, just trim with any ruler.

Clean up the four sides

Next, line up the center marks on the template and cut as shown below.  Work your way around reorienting the template, "landscape or portrait" as you go.

Slicing from the Sides

These become the parts for the quilt edge.  Other than the "floppy ears" that are left behind, there's not too much waste!

For a half slice, sew together 4.5" strips and cut as shown below.  A rotating board is also helpful but not necessary. 

Half Slice Cores

 I like the variety half slice cores give and they can make layout more interesting.  You can also add in full template cores of course.

Apple Slices and Chunks

The curve is gentle enough to not require pins and the center seam of a quarter chunk actually makes it easier to line up.  I'd recommend finger pressing the center for reference on the half slice or full cores to keep on target.

Secondary designs appear depending upon placement, so play around with your layout before deciding.  Seams can be pressed open or to the side. I tried it both ways and prefer open for the piecing and to the side for the rows.  

Late Night Layout - 

Sorry for the poor lighting on this one.  I wanted to show how I used wonder clips facing alternating directions (red or clear) to mark the bottom of each column (1-2-3). What's your trick for keeping track?

Play around with your feet to find one that you like for the topstitching of the bias.  Before adding the bias down I dabbed a bit of glue here and there to secure it in place.  It's not necessary but I found it helpful.

For the second quilt I decided not to add the bias because I was going for a softer appearance more inline with the palette.   Full reveal of "Chunky Apples Sauce"  coming soon.

If you happen to be at Quilt Market this week or see a photo of Ripple Strudel or Dig Deep in the Andover Fabrics booth #1601- I'd love to see it.  I'm home with the rest of the #notgoingtoquiltmarket folks drooling over the IG feed.